My Bike Lights
by Ross Mernyk
Most photos you can click to enlarge
The Story
Last year I walked into a local bike shop and asked for their brightest bicycle headlight.
They said $600. My girlfriend was with me and said she wouldn't pay that for a bicycle!
Thus started my saga. I decided to go with a 12 volt system, and use automotive lights,
which are cheap and super-bright, but are heavy. My whole rig adds about 13 pounds to my
36 pound bike. But since I ride for exercise, the extra weight will eventually come off my body!
Whenever I ride at night (mostly in and around Prospect Park, in Park Slope, Brooklyn NY)
I get comments and questions about my lights. Riders and joggers pull over figuring I'm a car.
Racers see my taillight half a mile back, and tell me so. I think my rig is the best and
brightest lighting system for bicycles. It took some work. Here's how I did it...
Pricing Note
- Some items below are only sold in pairs, or I bought two to save on shipping (expecting to outfit two bikes)
- Prices marked ** are price each, when I bought the pair
- All Ebay & mailorder prices include shipping
Headlight High Beam
- 55 watt automobile halogen fog light with Maxtel glass lens
- Contains H3 55watt halogen bulb, meets SAE-Y-82, 1 pound, 7x4x3 inches
- $14** from Ebay seller A&M Lighting and Accessories
Headlight Low Beam
- Clear truck backup LED light oval
- DOT replacement for the standard truck backup lights straddling the rear gate
- 7 inch long, 2 inch wide, 1 inch thick plus connector, 6 ounces
- I measured 80 mAmp draw (1.0 watts)
- $23** from Ebay seller Global Parts Incorporated
Taillight
- 7 inch round LED bus trailer cargo light
- DOT replacement for the standard tail/brake lights on every yellow schoolbus
- 7 inch diameter, 2 inch thick, 1 pound
- I wired the tail & brake wires together (so both are on)
- I measured 250 mAmp draw (3.0 watts)
- $29** from Ebay seller Truck Trailer Parts Depot
Battery
- Powertron PT1112 - 12v 11ah
- 12 volts, 11 amp-hours, SLA (sealed lead acid), 6.5 pounds, 6x3x5 inches
- SLA batteries are 4 times as heavy as the equivalent energy in NiMH batteries, but they are way cheaper
and you can beat the crap out of them for 5 years and they'll keep working. They have no memory effect,
you can generally deep cycle them without damage, and you can leave them charging continuosly if you want.
- WARNING - the battery contains SULFURIC ACID, so you really don't want it to leak
- Make sure the battery is well padded at ALL potential contact points
- If you fall or your bike bangs something, inspect the battery WITHOUT touching it
or anything around it
- Sulfuric acid WILL burn your fingers off if you touch it
- When charging it is a good idea to allow air in/out of the compartment holding the battery
- The battery should be mounted/situated with its terminals on top
- $28** from Ebay seller MotoBatteries.com
Battery Charger
- ACI Advanced Chargers 1202CC
- Intelligent 12 volt 1 amp charger (plugs into the wall)
- $40 from Ebay seller MotoBatteries.com (auction called it "supercharger")
Terminal Block
- Radio Shack 274-678 - 8 position european style terminal strip
- Rated 30 amps, accepts two 10-guage wires per hole
- $3 at Radio Shack
Switch
- K&S Technologies 12-0040 - motorcycle light/horn universal switch
- Needed motorcycle switch for waterproof/vibrationproof, appx 1 pound
- Had to change my alloy handlebar to a steel one, because central thickened section
of alloy handlebar was 5.5" wide, while steel one was only 1.75", and light/horn switch
could only mount on thin part of handlebar
- $20 for steel handlebar at Dixon's bike shop in park slope, brooklyn NY
- $60 switch from PeakMoto.com or from KandStech.com
Horn
- Wolo 330 - fun horn - oooga sound
- 12 volt, appx 1 pound
- $33 at Pep Boys
Wire
- Stranded 14 guage wire - 14 awg (american wire guage)
- Preferably MTW (machine tool wire) resists water & heat & oil
- Primary wire is acceptable but not as good as MTW wire
- $17 for 100 foot spool of 14 awg stranded primary wire at Pep Boys
Rear Bike Bag
- Nashbar NA-GERT-Y - deluxe rack trunk
- 905 cubic inches, 12x10x6 inches, 1 pound
- I used one padded separator to confine the battery accross front (inside) of bag
- I folded the other padded separator around the front&bottom of battery for extra padding
- $40 at Nashbar.com
Misc Mounting Stuff
- Old inner tube cut up to grip hose clamps & lights (thanks Dixon's bike shop)
- Tie wraps for running wires and affixing terminal block to handlebar stem
- Wire crimp connectors for connections at battery & horn
- Solder and shrink-wrap to extend taillight wires to terminal block
- Hose clamp to mount fog light to handlebar
- Hose clamp & L bracket & bolt & rubber block to mount head light low beam to fork brake hole
- Hose clamp & mending cleat to mount horn to front axel
Run Time Note
- With the headlight low beam & taillight, the rig will run for 32 hours
- With the headlight high beam & taillight, the rig will run for 90 minutes
- If you need longer run time with high beam, you can replace the H3 55watt bulb with an H3 27watt bulb,
which will run 3 hours, though it is half as bright
Email: website@rossmernyk.com
Updated: February 4, 2009